PDF SEWING PATTERN | 216 Schoolmistress' Shirtwaist & Skirt | Folkwear

PDF SEWING PATTERN | 216 Schoolmistress' Shirtwaist & Skirt | Folkwear

Skill Level: Advanced
Sizes: Women's XS–3XL
Language: English Only

The 216 Schoolmistress' Shirtwaist & Skirt sewing pattern by Folkwear recreates an elegant matched ensemble dating from around 1907, when women's clothing was becoming increasingly influenced by tailored menswear.

The pattern includes a beautifully detailed shirtwaist blouse and seven-gore skirt in two lengths, which can be worn together as an Edwardian-inspired outfit or sewn separately for a more contemporary wardrobe.

The Shirtwaist features an elegant princess line at the back accented by two wide tucks extending over the shoulders to the front. Choose between a pretty scalloped front opening or a simpler straight front placket. Gathers at the back waist soften the fitted silhouette, while moderately full set-in sleeves gather into buttoned cuffs.

The sweeping seven-gore skirt features an inverted back pleat below the centre-back closure for added fullness and movement. The skirt can be made in a short or long length, with optional bias or straight-grain trim at the hem.

Bias detailing can also be added to the Shirtwaist cuffs and front opening using the same or a contrasting fabric, or omitted for a simpler finish.

Pattern Features

• Shirtwaist blouse and seven-gore skirt
• Two skirt lengths: short and long
• Two Shirtwaist front options
• Scalloped or straight front opening
• Princess-line back
• Four wide shoulder and back tucks
• Gathered back waist
• Set-in sleeves with gathered cuffs
• Buttoned cuffs
• Inverted back skirt pleat
• Optional bias or straight-grain decorative detailing
• Optional hem trim

Suggested Fabrics

Shirtwaist & Skirt:

• Cotton broadcloth
• Cotton poplin
• Denim
• Silk
  
• Linen
• Light to medium-weight blends

Additional Skirt Options:

• Light to medium-weight wool
• Corduroy
• Velour

If using a contrasting checked or plaid fabric for the bias detailing, checks or plaids no larger than 3/8" / 1 cm are recommended.

Notions & Supplies

Shirtwaist:

• Thread
• Seven 1/2" / 13 mm buttons
• 1 3/4 yd / 1.6 m of 1/4" / 6 mm wide ribbon for waist tie
• Optional: 1/8 yd / 11.5 cm lightweight non-woven interfacing for collar

Skirt:

• Thread
• One 1/2" / 13 mm button
• Four snaps
• Optional: 1/8 yd / 11.5 cm lightweight non-woven interfacing for waistband

Optional Self-Fabric Waist Tie: Instead of ribbon, the instructions include an option to make a 1" × 54" / 2.5 × 137 cm self-fabric tie.

Size Chart

XS: Bust 30 1/2–31 1/2" / 78–80 cm | Waist 23–24" / 58–61 cm | Hip 32 1/2–33 1/2" / 83–86 cm
SM: Bust 32 1/2–34" / 83–87 cm | Waist 25–26 1/2" / 64–67 cm | Hip 34 1/2–36" / 88–92 cm
MD: Bust 36–38" / 92–97 cm | Waist 28–30" / 72–77 cm | Hip 38–40" / 97–102 cm
LG: Bust 40–42" / 102–107 cm | Waist 32–34" / 82–87 cm | Hip 42–44" / 107–112 cm
XL: Bust 44–46" / 112–117 cm | Waist 37–39" / 94–99 cm | Hip 46–48" / 117–122 cm
2XL: Bust 48–50" / 122–127 cm | Waist 42–44" / 107–112 cm | Hip 50–52" / 127–132 cm
3XL: Bust 52–54" / 132–137 cm | Waist 46–48" / 117–122 cm | Hip 54–56" / 137–142 cm

Finished Garment Measurements

Finished Bust:
XS: 40" / 102 cm | SM: 43" / 109 cm | MD: 47" / 119 cm | LG: 51" / 130 cm | XL: 55" / 140 cm | 2XL: 59" / 150 cm | 3XL: 63" / 160 cm

Finished Waist:
XS: 24" / 61 cm | SM: 27 1/2" / 67 cm | MD: 31 1/2" / 80 cm | LG: 35" / 89 cm | XL: 39" / 99 cm | 2XL: 44" / 112 cm | 3XL: 48" / 122 cm

Finished Hip:
XS: 34" / 86 cm | SM: 37" / 94 cm | MD: 41" / 104 cm | LG: 45" / 114 cm | XL: 49" / 124 cm | 2XL: 53" / 135 cm | 3XL: 57" / 145 cm

PDF Pattern Includes

• A0 copyshop pattern – 5 pages
• 36" copyshop pattern – 2 pages
• Print-at-home files – Shirtwaist: 30 pages | Skirt: 55 pages
• Projector files for the Shirtwaist and Skirt
• Layered pattern files by size
• Illustrated sewing instructions – 24 pages